Outer Travels Inner Journeys

A journal of a wandering soul – currently living in Peru

First week in Peru

May6

Well, I’ve been in Peru just over a week now and so far everything has gone as well as I could ever have expected! I apologise for the lack of updates for the few people who are following this blog.

So what have I been up to so far?

Well, after arriving in Cusco last Tuesday I found my way to Casa de la Gringa, a really nice little travellers hostel. I spent 6 nights there in total and really enjoyed my stay there.

My first few days were spent mostly exploring Cusco and getting used to the high altitude (over 11,000ft!!) . I suffered mild altitude sickness for the first 48 hours which resulted in me feeling a little light headed and some very mild flu-like symptoms. Or perhaps I caught swine-flu on the way!? Either way, I got over it in a few days.

Cusco is a wonderful city to explore. It’s a huge labyrinth of small cobbled-stoned streets, alley-ways and squares, with hundreds of little stores that sell some of the most incredible Peruvian art and clothing. I’m sure the novelty will wear off after awhile, but even after a week here I still love to walk around browsing the stores and making new discoveries.

There’s also a huge amount of restaurants and cafes, offering a wide variety of food, most of which are very reasonably priced – at least to someone with an average western sized income. You can eat well for about £5 and eat like a king for about £20.

A street in the San Blas area of Cusco

A street in the San Blas area of Cusco

A street in Cusco

A street in Cusco

Last Thursday I visited the main market for the first time. In fact there are two main markets. One is predominantly for food and the other for electrical, clothing and household goods. Fruit and veg is amazingly cheap and you can probably buy almost all the fruit and veg you can eat in a week for about £5 (and that assumes that, like me, you eat quite a lot of fruit and veg!).

Entrance to Cusco's main market

Entrance to Cusco's main market

On friday night I participated in my first Ayahuasca ceremony here in Peru. The friday ceremony was unplanned and fairly spur of the moment and I have to be honest definitely wasn’t one of the best ceremonies I’ve experienced. I’ll write a lot more about ayahuasca in future posts.

The friday ceremony took place in Lesley’s house who is the owner of the hostel I was staying in. About 15 people took part in the ceremony and it was conducted by a young female shaman from the sacred valley.

Leyley's house

Leyley's house

A couple of days previous I had made plans to go to Pisac, a small town in the sacred valley to do an ayahuasca ceremony with Javier at a small healing resort called Paz Y Luz (Peace & Light). I hardly slept on friday night after the ceremony and almost decided not to go to Pisac, but an intuition told me I should go. So after we walked back down to Cusco from Leyley’s house I got on the bus to Pisac because I knew Javier wanted me there by around midday.

Walking back down to Cusco

Walking back down to Cusco

View over Cusco

View over Cusco

The bus was an interesting experience. It was just leaving the bus station when I got there but I flagged it down and got on board just in the nick of time. However the small bus was completely full with even two passengers in the front passenger seat. I was going to try and stand (not easy on these kinds of roads) but the bus driver insisted I sat on this small makeshift seat right in the middle between him and the two front passengers. It wasn’t the comfiest seat in the world but way better than trying to stand and I got a fantastic view of the journey ahead.

The bus journey was about 45 minutes. The first half is mostly uphill as the bus ascends up the mountainous terrain, and then the second half is all downhill as the road descends into the sacred valley towards Pisac.

View from the front of the bus to Pisac

View from the front of the bus to Pisac

Upon arriving at Pisac I went straight to Paz y Luz where I met and spoke to Javier for awhile. Then I booked myself into a room and got myself some much needed sleep before we met for the ceremony at 5.30pm.

The ceremony with Javier was awesome. He’s created a really safe and sacred space in his ceremony room at the back of his house. I don’t want to write too much about my experience but I felt tremendous love and energy for the full length of the ceremony. As stated above I will write more about ayahuasca in future posts because it’s played an important role in my spiritual journey so far.

View from the sacred valley

View from the sacred valley

On the Sunday morning I caught the bus back to Cusco and got some much needed rest and begin the process of integrating what I had learnt the previous two nights.

On the Sunday evening I went to see a guy who had a spare room in a house he managed. The room was perfect and I moved in the following morning. It’s costing me 600 soles a month (about £135) and as I write this I’ve spent two nights there. It feels like one of the most perfect houses I could have found. In fact I didn’t really find it – it found me – just like I knew it would. More information and pictures coming soon.

Anyway, that’s my summary of my first week so far. It’s been a wonderful week and I’m feeling really high on life right now. If every other week is as good as this then I’m going to have an amazing experience here.

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On top of the world

April29

As I write this I’m sat in a beautiful hostel in Cusco sipping delicious coca tea and I feel on top of the world!

I arrived in Peru yesterday and I could not have asked for a smoother journey so far. My flight from Toronto landed in Lima 25 minutes early about 9pm local time. I got through immigration and received the 6 month visa I requested without any problems. Then a cab driver was there to pick me up and take me to a hostel I had booked online just the night before. The hostel was much further away from the airport than I thought but I got to see more of the city and I enjoyed the drive. I think we arrived at the hostel about 10.30pm and I went straight to bed.

This morning I woke up early and was met about 9.30 by a lady called Malena, and another guy, who was sorting out my flight to Cusco. It turned out my flight was booked for 3pm so I had quite a few hours to kill and was given a tour of the city by the guy whose name I forget.

Lima seems to have changed quite a bit since I was last there in 1998. One of the most obvious changes is the roads. While certainly not perfect they’re infinitely better than I remember them as result from being resurfaced. Lima also feels a bit safer than I remember it.

Here’s a few pictures of the main Plaza Mayor square in downtown Lima

Basilica Cathedral of Lima
Plaza Mayor 1
The Presidential Palace

After my tour around Lima I had to get a taxi from downtown Lima to the airport and that was an experience I won’t forget for awhile. The taxi driver didn’t seem to care for main roads and instead drove down an endless amount of back roads through what were clearly some very poor areas of the city. Most of these roads probably haven’t ever been resurfaced. Also, the only way to get across busy junctions where you don’t have right of way is to just stick your nose out and hope the cars heading towards you decide to stop in time. Needless to say, there were several hair raising moments on this 20 minute ride to the airport.

Anyway, we eventually got to the airport in one piece and I caught my flight to Cusco without any problems. I love the approach to Cusco airport because the plane literally has to fly between mountains. It’s an exciting descent and I bet it’s even more amazing from the cockpit!

Here’s a few pics I managed to take from the window.

Descending towards Cusco
descending to Cusco
Descending to Cusco

After landing in Cusco I took a taxi to the hostel that I’m booked into for 4 nights while I hopefully find a place to live for awhile. The hostel is called Casa de la Gringa and is really lovely hostel. I’ve got my own room, not a dorm, but it’s only costing me $15 a night. I’ll take a few photos of it tomorrow.

I took a brief walk around Cusco earlier which is a really interesting and beautiful town but I’m sure I’ll write much more about it in future posts. I know I’m going to be happy here for awhile!

posted under Cusco, Peru | 1 Comment »

A man without a plan

April23

It’s now been almost three weeks since I decided to move to Peru and I’ve told several people about it since. A few people have asked questions like ‘why are you going?’, ‘what will you be doing when you get there?’. And I usually have to respond with “I’m not sure yet!”. Understandably people are a little bemused by that.

It’s true I don’t have any concrete plans, or even a place to live yet. And that’s how I like it.

I’m following my intuition (a powerful driving force in my life) so I know that I’m going to Peru for a good reason but I don’t need to be too concerned about what that reason is yet. I just trust that everything will unfold as and when it should – just like it always does.

I think too many people get so caught up (and even obsessed) with their plans and goals that they lose sight of the present moment and forget just how magical life really is. But magic can only happen in the moment, not in the past or the future.

Now, I’m certainly not saying it’s wrong to have plans or goals. Some things definitely benefit from planning, like a business for example. Or any large event like a festival, exhibition or even a wedding is not going to be successful if it isn’t well planned out in advance.

However, I think it’s easy for people to get so obsessed with planing that they often lose the ability to be spontaneous. And trust me, spontaneity is where most of the fun happens!

Think of the last few situations where you were having the most fun and experiencing the most joy. Were those situations planned long in advance, or did they happen fairly spontaneously? I think most people will realise that the best times just seem to arise from nowhere.

So no plans for me just yet. I want this journey to unfold and be as spontaneous and magical as possible. Hopefully that makes sense!

Question for the comments: When was the last time you had an incredible life experience that you weren’t expecting?

posted under Life, Peru | 2 Comments »

One way ticket to Peru!

April14

Very recently I made what is perhaps one of the craziest decisions of my life. I bought a one way ticket to Peru with almost no idea of what I’m getting myself into. And I can’t wait!

This also wasn’t something I was seriously thinking about for a long time. Just 10 days ago I was happily living in Canada fully expecting to spend at least another 6 months here. After enduring a long and cold winter I was really looking forward to seeing the sunnier side of Canada. But then I had a feeling I had to go to Peru. It was rather a sudden feeling but I know myself well enough to know that when I get these types of feelings I should trust them.

Why Peru you might ask? isn’t that a bit random?

I have actually been to Peru once before. I was there for about 18 days eleven years ago and I really fell in love with the place. It really is a magical country. I’ll write more about my original trip in a future post and over the coming months this blog will hopefully take you into the magic that is Peru.

Anyway, I’ve always wanted to go back, I just never had any idea when that would be. Now I know – it’s the 27th of April.

I’ll be using this blog as a journal for my time in Peru and anywhere else I might end up on this new adventure I’m embarking on.

posted under Peru | 1 Comment »
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